Renaissance of Noble Sweet Wines
by István Müller, Director of  Tokaji Wine Trust Co.  and
John M. Joergensen, International Banker and wine-collector

One speaks of renaissance when something new is created according to classical ideals.
The Tokaji as a concept and wine was first produced in the 16th century and for this reason it seems important to begin with a historical summary in brief.

The quality of this wine was improved through late harvesting and a third discing. During this time the grape varieties Furmint and Hárslevelú became widely cultivated. Later on the Muskotaly (Muscat Lunel) was implemented.

Seen historically, the princely family of Rákóczis was experiencing their zenith in north-eastern Hungary and in Transylvania. It is assured and documented that in 1631 Máté Szepsi Laczkó,- a protestant preacher - produced the first Aszú wine for the mistress of the estate Zsusanna Lórantiffy, the widow of Georg Rákóczi. This sacramental wine from the wine-growing area "Oremus" (i.e. "Let us Pray") near Sátoraljaújhely was meant to be an Easter present.

This is also proven by the documented stocks of Aszú-wine in the Sárospataker Rákoczi
cellar in 1635. In 1655 the Estate of Realm drew up paragraph 79, that prescribed the selective harvest of Aszú grapes in Tokaj.

Máté Szepsi Laczkó discovered the great value of Aszú grapes and elaborated guidelines for Aszú-wine production that are even valid today.

The significance, with respect to culture and heritage, emanates from Sárospatak to Germany and France, where in the Rheingau (since 1775) and the Sauternes noble sweet wines are produced from botrytis grapes.

What are Aszú grapes and the Aszú and Eszencia wines ?

For the production of Aszú grapes a long warm dry autumn is needed. During mid-september, when the sugar content of the Furmint and Hárslevelú grapes attain 16 KMW (Klosterneuburger Mostwaage) or 80 Oechsle, the fungus Botrytis Cinera penetrates the grape-skin that has been perforated through osmotic pressure changes, which result after vene the slightest rainfall.As soon as the warm dry weather sets in, noble rotting begins, not only causing dehydration and a high concentration of sugar, but various biochemical reactions such as the decomposition of acids and the production of aromatic substances.
After 10 to 14 days the Aszú grapes are chocolate-brown and shriveled and are covered by fungus threads and conidia. The natural sugar content reaches 60 to 65 % and a most exquisite aroma and bouquet develop.

The production of Aszú grapes is the fundamental concept for all categories of Tokaji wine specialities.

The Tokaj wines with a certificate of origin were classified as follows:

Szamorodni-száraz (dry)
Szamorodni-édes (sweet)
Aszú
Aszú-Eszencia
Eszencia


Szamorodni

The word is of Polish origin and means "as grown" or "as it turns out". This word dates back to 1826 and these grapes are processed, as the name infers, in the state they are in after being picked.
No selection takes place, meaning that ripe and over-ripe grapes which have been more or less infested by noble rot and shrivelled, are processed together without any special treatment.

Depending on weather conditions, the harvest will contain different noble-rot-infested grapes which determine the type of Szamorodni. The more noble rot there is, the riper the grapes and the sweeter the wine.
Less successful vintages with only a small percentage of noble rot lead to dry wines. Vinification ensues in 136 liter Gönc barrels (named after the small village Gönc from where the barrels originate) or in a 220-liter Szerednye barrels (also named after the village of origin). The wine is stored for at least 2 years and during 3 to 6 months only 3/4 of each barrel is filled in order to allow for oxydative vinification.

Aszú

This term describes grapes that are infested by noble rot (Botrytis Cinera) and of which it is documented to have taken place even before 1590, actually assuming 1569-1572 as being the period of which Aszú was discovered. During harvest these grapes are singly picked out of the the bunch of grapes and collected in tubs called puttony. One of these puttonys holds 25 to 26 kilo grapes which corresponds to approximately 20 cubic litres. The grapes are then crushed by a special crushing machine whereby grape-seeds are not ground and in November/December young wine is added.
The young wine (in no case must, as often wrongfully cited) is taken from the Gönc or Szerednye barrels. Two, three, four, five and on rare occasions six tubs of Aszú mash are added to 136 litres of young wine. This is then stirred repeatedly during the first 24 to 48 hours thereby allowing the natural sugar and the aromatic substances to be extracted from the Aszú-grapes. It is then refilled into the Gönc barrels where the wine begins to ferment anew.
The process of fermentation is greatly delayed by the high sugar content and the low temperatures of the natural stone cellars. Nowadays the 2 Puttonyos Aszú is no longer for sale, but one of the latest produced is the vintage of 1932.

Aszú Eszencia

This type of Aszú is offered for sale very rarely, since it exists only in small, limited amounts.
It is a wine that is not classified according to the number of tubs, because the sugar content and the amount of sugar-free extracts are much higher than the 6-tub Aszú. To attain exquisite taste, aroma and bouquet, this wine needs to ripen in a Gönc barrel for minum 15 years and another 5 years in the bottle.

Aszú Eszencia is only produced after extraordinary vintages and made of noble-rot-infested grapes from the best wine-growing areas. The law prescribes that the wine must contain a minimum of 180 g/l residual sugar and 50 g/l sugar-free extract.

Eszencia (nectar)

The Tokaji Eszencia is the most exquisite and precious wine made from the grapes of Tokaj. As in the case with Aszú-wine, the grapes are selectively hand-picked, out of the grape-bunch and collected in special tubs, equipped with a second grid bottom.
Witout any mechanical assistance the grapes lose part of their juice through their own weight. This juice collects under the grid and is filled into Gönc barrels via a spigot.

This nectar is even mentioned in the national anthem of Hungary:
"From the vines of Tokaj you let nectar drip" by Ferenc Kölcsey, 1823.

Due to the high sugar level, fermentation sets in, and a "beverage" or rather nectar-wine is produced which can be served at special occasions after 20 years of vinification and 5 to 8 years of ripening in bottles.
The Hungarian quality standard prescribes a minimum of 250 g/l residual sugar and 50 g/l sugar-free extracts for this wine. It goes without saying that this Tokaj-speciality cannot be classified according to the tub-number, as it is the true and unique "essence".

Eszencia often does not require the alcohol percentage prescribed by law since the yeast does not succesfully ferment the concentrated must completely. The concentration of alcohol is generally only 3 to 6 % vol., often rendering Eszencia unmarketable.
Nevertheless a bottle is sometimes presented as a gift or "award" on the occasion of state visits or similar important events.

Museum wines

Is is difficult to say at what age a Tokaj-wine is most exquisite. As a rule one could say: the older the better. Every Aszú is bottled after having reached complete maturity, but it continues to become even more refined in taste, aroma and bouquet. The higher the tub number of an Aszú wine, it will easily last up to 300 years, without losing any of its premium quality.

The Tokaj museum wines are actually "normal" Aszú-wines of excellent vintage that are chosen by the vintner and become part of the museum cellar. With a relative humidity of 78 to 98 % it is the only place worldwide where bottles can be kept in an upright position since the corks cannot dry out. The museum wines are nevertheless, recorked every 25 to 30 years.

The museum cellar of state wines still includes bottles from 1680 and upto present.
Unfortunately the noble Aszú-wine cannot be produced every year. Studies on the
wine-quality of the last 190 years show, that only 31 % of the vintages, i.e. only every third year is of premium quality.

In approximately 15 countries of the world "Tokay wines" are being produced. These wines have nothing to do with the true Tokaj-wine, but the non-specialist is easily mislead.

The Aszú of Tokaj has become a princely wine: this thanks to the well situated wine-growing area, the climate, the soil, the choice of grape varieties, the 360 years of wine-experience, the work of many people and the special cellar conditions of Tokaj-Hegyalja.

In Hungary, as in many other countries, the taste and the demands of the consumer has very much changed.

The consumer has had enough of uniform, over-sulphurized wines without character that are in vogue.

The demand and the taste shows two distinct trends:
1.: Fresh primary aroma of the grape variety
2.: Vinification in wooden barrels, also with oxydative clay
Increasing demand for premium quality, with high content of extract.

The consumer prefers wines that have been produced without or with very little amounts of chemicals and is in relation hereto willing to pay higher prices.

The diversity of Tokaj-wines can according to individual characteristics be used when preparing meals or can be served as a cocktail and along with various meals.

The renaissance of Tokaj-wines is back at its zenith and aside from the state sector in grape production and in winery-business and trade,- private enterprises and foreign investors have appeared on the scene.

The combination of tradition and sophisticated technologies together with a thorough knowledge of the market secures the position of the Tokaj-wine.

As Ludwig XIV emphasized: " the wine of kings and the king of wine ".